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After graduating from La Cambre in Brussels in 2006, Vaccarello entered the Festival of Hyeres, a large fashion and photography event in the South of France, and went on to win grand prize. The designer quickly shot to fame, accepting a position at Fendi in Rome to design the house’s furs. In 2009, he decided to pursue his own aesthetic and debuted his first womenswear collection that winter in Paris at the famed Maria Luisa boutique, followed by Joyce in Hong Kong.

For A/W 2010, Lou Dillon’s bedhead locks are the archetectural antithesis of Vaccarello’s superstructured separates. In monochromatic black, the designer’s details are found in the construction of each garment. Basic jackets with notches taken out of the lapels are shown aside peplum-waisted mini dresses with sharp cuts down the center and formfitting studded crop tops. Geometric cutouts of triangles and squares make each item a bold statement piece and are not for the faint of fashion. But the lines’ sex appeal does not come from solely from excess of bare skin—many looks feature higher necklines and slouchy jackets over tighter pieces.

Shot in black-and-white by photographer Julia Chameau, with Dillon lazily inhaling her cigarette, the look book depicts the woman of power Vaccerello tries so hard to illustrate. These women embrace the paradox of bold, declarative fashion and effortless minamalist—all with a quick fluff of the hair and slouch of a shoulder. “A strong individual woman. A woman with a failure behind her. A woman who is smiling but her eyes are brimming with tears,” he is quoted saying in Un Nouveau Ideal.

Anthony Vaccarello is sold in London exclusively at Brown’s. His designs are also available at Colette in Paris, Kirna Zabete in New York and more."

- Emily Freisher
http://www.pushitmagazine.com/

Images by Julia Chameau